Milly's 101: The Perfect Risotto

A bowl of creamy risotto is one of life’s great comfort foods. It can be elegant enough for a dinner party or simple enough for a Tuesday night supper made from whatever’s lurking in the fridge. The secret? Risotto isn’t really a recipe, it’s a technique. Once you understand how it works, you can turn almost any combination of ingredients into a beautifully creamy bowl of Italian comfort. Here’s what you need to know.

FIRST THINGS FIRST: CHOOSING THE RIGHT RICE
When it comes to risotto, not all rice is created equal. You need a short-grain Italian rice that releases starch slowly as it cooks - that’s what gives risotto its signature creamy texture.

The three options widely available are:

• Arborio – widely available and great for everyday cooking
• Carnaroli – slightly firmer grains and beautifully creamy
• Vialone Nano – our favourite for the silkiest finish

As a guide, allow about ⅓ cup (around 120g) of rice per person for a generous serving.

THE RIGHT PAN MATTERS
Risotto cooks best in a wide, heavy-based sauté pan rather than a tall saucepan. Why? Because the rice should sit in a single layer (ish) across the base of the pan. This allows your stock to evaporate at the correct rate, and prevents the risotto from becoming soupy. A pan that’s too deep will trap moisture and slow the cooking process.

SET YOURSELF UP BEFORE YOU START
Once risotto begins cooking, things move quickly and you’re pretty much glued to the stove - so preparation is key.
Before you start, have everything ready: onion or shallots finely chopped, garlic crushed (if using), rice measured, stock hot and ready beside the stove, flavourings prepared, finishing ingredients grated or chopped.

THE ESSENTIAL RISOTTO METHOD
1. Sauté your base. Heat butter, olive oil or a mixture of both in your pan over medium heat. Add onion (and garlic if using) and cook very gently until soft and translucent - never browned.
2. Toast the rice. Add the rice and stir for about 2 minutes. This step coats the grains in fat and develops a gently nutty flavour. The rice should never brown, but it will smell delicious and slightly toasty when ready.
3. Add wine (optional but lovely) Deglaze the pan with a splash (or two) of white wine (and a glass for the cook) and let it bubble away. It’s not essential, but it adds a lovely layer of flavour - especially in simple risottos.
4. Add hot stock gradually – and now the magic begins. Add hot stock about half a cup at a time, stirring constantly. Let each addition absorb before adding the next. Stirring encourages the rice to release its starch, which is what gives risotto that silky, creamy texture.
Expect this stage to take about 15 minutes.

A WORD ABOUT STOCK
Risotto works by reducing the stock into the rice, concentrating flavour as it cooks. That means if your stock starts salty, it will become even saltier.
For best results:
- use unsalted stock if possible
- season gradually as you go
- homemade stock is always wonderful if you have it

WHEN TO ADD FLAVOURINGS
Once the rice is just tender and the stock has been absorbed, you can add your flavourings. This is where risotto becomes wonderfully adaptable.

Try:
- mushrooms
- spinach or greens
- seafood
- cured meats
- roasted vegetables
- olives or preserved lemon
Or simply clean out the fridge - risotto is very forgiving.

THE FINISHING TOUCH
Right at the end, enrich your risotto with:
- a knob of butter
- freshly grated parmesan
- lemon zest
- cracked black pepper
- fresh herbs
This final step (the Italians call it mantecatura) brings everything together into that irresistible creamy finish.

SERVE IMMEDIATELY
Perfect risotto should be soft, creamy and gently flowing. There’s a lovely Italian description: Risotto should spread slightly on the plate and then settle - never stiff and never soupy. Once it sits, the rice continues to absorb liquid and the texture thickens quickly so call everyone to the table and serve straight away.

FINAL THOUGHT FROM MILLY’S KITCHEN
Risotto has a reputation for being tricky, but in truth it’s simply about patience and good ingredients. Pour yourself that glass of wine, stir gently for a while, and enjoy the process. Before long you’ll have a bowl of one of Italy’s greatest comfort foods.